A New Twist on Old World Brewing at River North

Each craft brewery brings something different and special to the table. Most breweries showcase a variety of styles and profiles. A few focus on styles that originated in one country or region of the world. River North Brewery in Denver is one such brewery, focusing on making Belgian style beers, both traditional and with a twist. Though it's only been around for a couple years, River North has established itself as among the best in Colorado to produce high-quality, complex Belgian style ales.

I had the opportunity to stop in to River North for the second time recently and taste several beers. Located in Denver's Ballpark Neighborhood on Blake Street a few blocks north of Coors Field, it's in the heart of a growing craft beer mecca. The taproom is small and cozy, with a handful of tables and about 10 or 12 seats at the bar. Some of the traditional Belgian styles River North brews include a white ale, a saison, a quadrupel ale, and sometimes a dubbel ale, among others. They brew other styles like a red ale, a black IPA and a double IPA, but these are all fermented with a Belgian yeast strain. That means every beer they brew is a Belgian style, whether it's traditional or more innovative. They also age some of their beers in barrels, which adds another dimension of complexity to the beer and provides an amazing contrast between the original version and the barrel-aged version.

On this visit, I had the Hello, Darkness Black IPA, the Whiskey Barrel Quandary Quadrupel, and the Avarice Belgian Style Imperial Stout. All were excellent, and here are a few quick tasting notes. Hello, Darkness is medium-bodied and moderately carbonated. Belgian yeast is apparent in the aroma and the initial taste. There's a nice balance between dark roasted malts and hops, with a bitter finish that lingers on the tongue. The Quandary is one of the most unique beers I've had recently. Sweet whiskey flavors are right up front in the aroma. Whiskey is the initial flavor, and then the strong malt flavors come through. Flavors of butterscotch and caramel are abundant, and the beer leaves a buttery, candy-like taste on the palate. The Avarice is a very complex stout with big coffee notes in the aroma. Flavors of coffee and chocolate from the massive amounts of dark malts come through strong, and then there's a sweetness on the back end from the Belgian yeast.

Many of the River North beers are stronger and higher in alcohol content, as is typical for many Belgian styles, but there has been no burn from the alcohol presence in any of the beers I've had. That speaks to the complexity derived from quality ingredients and Belgian yeast, and to the expertise the brewers at River North possess. Whether you're new to Belgian style beers or you're well-versed in them, it's definitely worth stopping into the River North taproom or picking up a bottle at the store.