TRVE Brewing Carves Its Niche in the Denver Beer Scene

What does craft beer have to do with the occult? Not much, usually. But at TRVE Brewing Company in Denver, they've coupled these two things remarkably well. TRVE, pronounced "true," is a heavy metal brewery and taproom in the historic Baker Neighborhood on Broadway, a part of town known for its eclectic vibe and alternative scene. This brewery fits in well with its surroundings, but also produces some high quality beer to help satisfy this area's growing thirst.

I recently checked TRVE out for the first time, and had a great experience. While it's not my typical scene, I definitely didn't feel out of place because there was such a diverse mix of people there. The taproom is quite dark, with a long communal table in the front section. The bar area is lit by candle light, and the decor makes it clear this is a metal brewery. Of course, metal music is played throughout the taproom, with the loudest area being the bar. There are beautiful, dark paintings of eery, dilapidated houses around the walls. Toward the back of the taproom, beyond the bar, brewing kettles are on display. The photo below doesn't really do justice to the ambience of the place.

Now, on to the beer. I sampled a handful of TRVE's beers, but the ones that stood out were Grey Watcher, a slightly tart farmhouse ale; Atma, a Belgian Golden Strong Ale; and Hell Patrol, a Double British IPA that was brewed in collaboration with Oregon's Ninkasi Brewing. All were very tasty and were a reflection of true brewing expertise. Later on, I sought out Tunnel of Trees IPA, but it's so popular that there was none left by that point in the night. Another popular TRVE beer, the Stout O))), was also out. They're both on the list for my next visit!

TRVE Brewing adds another layer of depth and character to the already-vibrant Denver beer scene. They pride themselves on brewing interesting and delicious beers that don't fit solidly into particular styles, so it gives them some room for creativity. Some of the best breweries in the U.S. were built on being unconventional, so it'll be interesting to see what the future holds for TRVE Brewing.

Belgians and Beef: A Good Match

Tonight's dinner at our house featured seasoned tri-tip steak, mushrooms cooked in red wine and beef stock, and pureed cauliflower. To complement this rich, decadent meal, I chose New Belgium Brewing Abbey. This Belgian-style dubbel ale holds a special place in my heart, as it was one of my forays into Belgian beers about eight or nine years ago. It's also one of the finest examples of the style that you'll find from an American craft brewery. According to its website, New Belgium first brewed Abbey in 1991, the same year Jeff Lebesch and Kim Jordan started the Fort Collins brewery.

My wife Kris had prepared this meal a couple times before, so I knew just how flavorful this dish was going to be. Abbey was exactly the kind of beer that could stand up well to the flavors, but not overpower them either. The beer pours a nice mahogany color, with a thin head. It's a complex beer, brewed with six different malts and fermented with a Belgian yeast strain. Malt dominates the profile, creating flavors resembling dark fruit and caramel. The beer is slick and slightly oily due to its complex nature. At 7% ABV, this beer is sturdy enough for this meal yet allows the food flavors to speak for themselves. It's a very nice match.

The sweetness of the malts makes this beer nice for sipping even after you're done eating. New Belgium beers are available across much of the U.S. these days, and Abbey is priced quite reasonably for being such a great beer. If you're seeking out a dubbel that's from Belgium, there are of plenty of outstanding ones to choose from if you have a good beer store nearby. Achel, Maredsous and St. Bernardus are just a few of the Belgian beer brands that feature excellent dubbels and a full selection of ales. If you're interested in getting this meal recipe, just give me a shout!

A Fall Seasonal Beer That Sets a Standard

Mountain Standard by Odell Brewing Company isn't your typical fall seasonal. There's no pumpkin, spices or caramel malts. But to me, Mountain Standard is the perfect fall beer in its own way. It's a double black IPA, so it features a huge amount of hops with a sturdy backbone of dark, roasted malts. I enjoy big hoppy IPAs all year-round, but they can be especially satisfying on a hot summer day. Darker beers brewed with roasted malts, like porters or stouts, are more often savored during the colder months. Mountain Standard melds the hoppiness and roasted maltiness together beautifully, and what you get is a unique drinking experience that reminds you of this season of transition.

The beer pours black with a thin head. The aroma you get up front is a large burst of hops with a sweetness from the roasted malts. The taste is exactly what you'd expect from the aroma - a fruity and piney hoppiness with some sweetness and roasted character. The big flavors you get from the ingredients hide the higher alcohol content, which checks in at 9.5% ABV. It's medium-bodied; this beer isn't overly thick or heavy, but not thin either. There's a nice balance for a beer with this much malt and hops. The finish is a lingering piney bitterness that stays with you for a minute or two.

Mountain Standard is an excellent example of this style, and a great beer for any hop head to try. The hops used in this beer are also grown locally on Colorado's Western Slope. The story told by the label is a treat as well, sparking intrigue and drawing me in. Odell is the consumate storyteller with its beers and label art, and there's a commonality to this brewery that makes it very approachable. Not to mention Odell consistently brews outstanding beer that appeals to a wide range of palates. The Mountain Standard label features a moon sneering at a grimacing sun, symbolizing the impending change from daylight savings time back to mountain standard time. The beer's roasted malts are also symbolic of the darker days ahead of us. Fortunately, enjoying some good beer with our friends and family makes those days seem not so dark.

A Great American Beer Night at Rackhouse Pub

This past week, the Great American Beer Festival was held here in Denver. Luckily, attending one of the festival's tasting sessions isn't required to get into the GABF spirit and drink some amazing beers. Many bars and restaurants step up their already impressive game throughout the week and host tap takeovers or feature a lot of incredible beers that are usually hard to find under one roof. Such was the case for Rackhouse Pub this week.

On any given day, Rackhouse features 30 great, rotating beers on tap, most of them from Colorado craft breweries. This week, they held a "Battle of the Barley," an unofficial contest between Colorado and California breweries to determine which state produces the best beer. Customers enjoyed an amazing selection of 30 top-notch beers from each state, doubling what Rackhouse normally pours. It was as impressive and broad a list as I've ever seen in one bar!

The tap list was dominated by sour ales, stronger Belgians, Imperial Stouts, and Double IPAs. With it being a Thursday evening and having to work the next day, I was forced to tread lightly and choose my beers wisely. Kris and I shared several beers, which included a New Belgium La Folie sour brown ale, Julian Brewing Cherry Bomb cider, Prost Brewing Oktoberfest, and Crooked Stave Vieille Artisanal Saison. I also enjoyed a Bear Republic Brewing Racer 15 Imperial IPA. All were excellent, but I'd say my favorites of the night were La Folie and Racer 15. Both are world-class examples of their style - La Folie with its lovely balanced sourness yet high drinkability,  and the Racer 15 with its distinctive west coast hoppiness big on citrus and grapefruit flavors.

So which state produces better beer? With this range of quality and selection, it doesn't really matter. I'm just lucky to live in area where great beer can be found within minutes of travelling in any direction, all year round.

Crafting an Impression: The Need for Beer-Savvy Servers

For many diners, the pairing of food and beverage is what makes a dining experience complete and unique. Wine has long been the category of beverage that fine diners pair with their meals. But with the renaissance of beer and the rise of the craft brewing movement, beer is gaining ground as a great choice to enjoy with food. The vast array of styles and the variance in flavors among different types of hops, malt and yeast make beer just as versatile as wine, if not more so, for pairing with food.

Given this rapid transition in the culinary landscape, restaurants need to proactively adapt to the needs and wants of their patrons. To their credit, many restaurants I've been to in Colorado and elsewhere in the country in the past few years have either stepped up their beer selection or already had a nice selection that complemented their menus. But the one aspect of beer service I sometimes find lacking is the basic knowledge about beer styles and descriptions. A nice restaurant wouldn't allow its staff to lack basic wine knowledge, so why doesn't beer consistently get the same treatment?

The bottom line is that beer enthusiasts and connoisseurs are savvy and, if they're like me, want to always learn more about the beverages they enjoy. At a minimum, restaurant servers need to know a beer's style, with a short description of the flavor profile. For example, "Odell Five Barrel is a pale ale with a distinctive hop flavor." Any further description that accurately delves into what makes this beer unique just adds more credibility to the server and the restaurant. For me, it leaves a lasting impression that the restaurant takes beer seriously and appreciates the opportunity to help their patrons choose a beer that will complete their meal. On the flipside, when a server inaccurately identifies a beer's style or doesn't know anything about a particular beer on the menu, that also can leave me thinking that perhaps this restaurant just doesn't care about giving its patrons the best service or experience possible.

I think the solution lies in the restaurant's attitude toward beer and its role in the overall dining experience. There's a beer that goes perfectly with food of every flavor imaginable, they just need to be explored and shared with diners. A restaurant can't go wrong if it tries to meet its customers where they're at with regard to knowledge of the food and drink products they serve. A knowledgeable staff can only add credibility to the restaurant, and can help give diners an excellent experience that'll keep them coming back for more.